The Patek Philippe Aquanaut arrived in 1997 as a younger, more relaxed companion to the Nautilus. It kept the rounded octagonal case but paired it with an embossed “tropical” composite strap and a dial with the same chequered relief, which made it lighter, more casual and considerably more wearable in hot weather.
It has since stepped out of the Nautilus’s shadow entirely. The 5167A in steel is now a serious watch in its own right, and the coloured-dial references have become some of the most requested pieces Patek makes.
How the Patek Philippe Aquanaut came about
By the late 1990s Patek Philippe wanted a watch for a younger, more casual buyer without diluting the Nautilus. The first Aquanaut, reference 5060A, took the porthole-inspired case, softened its outline, dropped the hinged “ears” at the sides, and set it on a strap with the same chequerboard pattern as the dial.
That strap was the real novelty. Luxury sports watches of the period came on steel bracelets or leather, and a composite strap on a Patek Philippe was unexpected. It turned out to be extremely practical: comfortable in the heat, unbothered by water and sweat, and simple to replace once it has done its job.
A redesigned generation arrived in 2007, led by the 5167A in 40mm steel with its larger Arabic numerals. Ten years later the 5168G, a 42mm white gold “Jumbo”, marked the model’s 20th anniversary. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut family now also includes the 5164A Travel Time, the 5968A chronograph and the Aquanaut Luce, a collection aimed mainly at women.
What to know when buying a pre-owned Aquanaut
The strap is a genuine differentiator. The composite strap is extremely durable and comfortable, and it can be replaced without affecting value. Check the condition, but do not let a worn strap put you off an otherwise good watch.
Size. The 5167A is 40mm and wears smaller than that figure suggests thanks to the case shape. The 5168G in white gold is 42mm and noticeably larger on the wrist.
Coloured dials carry real premiums. The khaki green and blue references have traded well above the standard black, and the gap is significant enough to be the main factor in the price of a given piece.
Check the clasp carefully. The fold-over clasp is a common point of wear on watches that have been worn hard, and it is a detail casual sellers frequently overlook.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut references explained
The reference number tells you most of what you need. The final letter gives the case metal, so A means steel and G means white gold, and the four digits identify the model and its complication. These are the Aquanaut references buyers mention most often when they contact us. The Patek Philippe website lists the models currently in production.
| Reference | Case | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| 5060A | Steel | The 1997 original |
| 5167A | Steel, 40mm | The core time-and-date model, usually with a black dial |
| 5168G | White gold, 42mm | The larger “Jumbo”, with blue or khaki green dials |
| 5164A | Steel | Travel Time, showing a second time zone |
| 5968A | Steel | Flyback chronograph |
Beyond the reference, the dial colour, the year, whether the box and papers are present, and the condition of the case and clasp decide what a particular Patek Philippe Aquanaut is worth. Two watches with the same number can be quite different propositions, so we always talk about the individual piece.
The year matters in a specific way here. The 2007 redesign changed both the case and the dial, so an early Aquanaut and a later one look noticeably different side by side. Neither is wrong, but it is worth knowing which generation you are looking at before you compare listings.
Choosing a size, dial and strap
For most people the 40mm steel Aquanaut is the obvious starting point. Its rounded case and flexible strap sit flat on the wrist, which is why it suits a broader range of wrist sizes than the figure implies. The 42mm 5168G has more presence and, being white gold, more weight, so it rewards a slightly larger wrist and a taste for something bolder.
Dial and strap colour matter more on this watch than on most, because the two are designed to match. Black is the classic, while khaki green and blue give the Patek Philippe Aquanaut a more contemporary look. Some references, such as the 5167/1A, come on a steel bracelet instead of the strap; they feel closer to a Nautilus, so try both if you are torn.
The Travel Time and chronograph versions are a little more involved. The 5164A adds pushers on the left of the case to set the local hour, which makes it ideal for regular flyers, while the chronograph turns the Aquanaut into a genuine tool watch. Both are larger and busier than the simple time-and-date model.
Living with a Patek Philippe Aquanaut
The Aquanaut is often described as the Patek you can actually wear every day, and it is easy to see why. The strap is light, it does not pull at the skin the way some bracelets can, and it copes with a hot day far better than leather. The case is slim enough for a shirt cuff, yet sporty enough for jeans, so a Patek Philippe Aquanaut covers more occasions than most watches at this level.
There are a few compromises. A composite strap will never look as formal as a bracelet, and a white gold Aquanaut on a strap is quieter than you might expect from the metal, which some owners see as a virtue. If you want a single watch to wear most days, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut makes a strong case for itself.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut or Nautilus?
The two share a family resemblance and a manufacture, but they answer different questions. The Nautilus has hinged sides, an integrated bracelet and a horizontally embossed dial, and it reads as a dressier sports watch. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut has a simpler case, a chequered dial and, usually, a composite strap, so it feels lighter and more at home on holiday or at the weekend.
If you wear a suit most days, the Nautilus may suit you better; if you live in a polo shirt, the Aquanaut probably will. Our Patek Philippe Nautilus page goes through the older model in more detail.
Condition, box and papers on a Patek Philippe Aquanaut
A well-kept Aquanaut is straightforward to assess if you know where to look. Each Patek Philippe Aquanaut we list has been checked on these points, and every listing states whether the watch comes with its box and papers. Our box and papers guide explains what each document proves.
- A certificate of origin or warranty card with a serial number matching the case
- The original strap or a correct replacement, with the original fold-over clasp
- A clasp that opens and closes cleanly, without play in the hinge
- Sharp case edges and clean transitions between brushed and polished surfaces
- An even embossed dial pattern with crisp numerals
- Service records showing when the watch was last opened
Spare straps in the box are a welcome bonus. A complete set with its inner and outer boxes and booklets makes the watch easier to sell on later, but a missing item is not automatically a reason to walk away if the watch itself is right.
Buying from Kings & Queens
- Inspected and authenticatedEvery watch is checked by experienced specialists, with serial numbers and components verified before it is offered.
- 12-month warrantyPre-owned pieces carry a 12-month warranty against movement defects. Unworn watches carry the manufacturer's own cover.
- Fully insured deliveryFree, fully insured and signed-for delivery across the UK.
- 14-day returnsFourteen days to change your mind from the day your watch arrives. We cover the return postage.
We are a specialist dealer in Hatton Garden, London. You are welcome to come and handle an Aquanaut in person by appointment, and a £100 deposit will hold a watch for three working days while you make up your mind.
Before a Patek Philippe Aquanaut appears on our site, experienced watch specialists inspect and authenticate it, and they record its serial number, movement identifiers, case markings and, where one is fitted, the bracelet number. Unless the listing says otherwise, it sits in our own stock and can be inspected before dispatch.
Our pre-owned watches carry a 12-month mechanical warranty from delivery unless the listing says otherwise, and a watch still within its manufacturer’s warranty is covered on the manufacturer’s terms. Delivery in the UK is free, insured and signed for, with orders prepared within two to three working days of payment clearing and tracked once on their way. We ship internationally on most orders, and you have 14 days to return a watch for a full refund.
The deposit cannot be refunded, but on request it can be used as store credit towards another watch. If the Aquanaut you want is not in stock, we source specific references and dial colours for clients on request.
For fraud prevention we may ask for identity or payment verification before dispatch, and we only ship to verified addresses. If you have a watch to trade in, part exchange offsets its value against your new Aquanaut in one transaction, and if yours is worth more, we pay you the difference.
Trying a Patek Philippe Aquanaut on in Hatton Garden
The Aquanaut is a watch that surprises people on the wrist, usually by how comfortable it is, so it is worth trying before you buy. Our showroom is at 9 St. Cross Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8UB, within easy walking distance of Farringdon and Chancery Lane stations.
Appointments run Monday to Friday from 10:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 12:00pm to 4:30pm, and each one is private, so you can take your time comparing a Patek Philippe Aquanaut with a Nautilus or anything else on your shortlist. Book through our contact page, by phone on 0330 043 7777 or on WhatsApp.
Servicing and caring for a Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Alpha Group, our sister business in the same building, carries out watch servicing, repairs and restoration, so your Aquanaut can be looked after by people you have met. Ask for the water resistance to be tested at each service, and especially before you swim with the watch.
The composite strap needs very little attention: rinse it in fresh water after the sea or a pool and let it dry naturally. Keep an eye on the clasp, which takes the most strain, and store the watch apart from other pieces so the polished surfaces stay clean.
If your Aquanaut has been sitting unworn for a long time, or you have inherited one, have it checked before it goes back into daily use. Lubricants age even when a watch is resting, and catching a problem early is always better than repairing one later.
Common questions
How is the Aquanaut different from the Nautilus?
Same design language, different intent. The Aquanaut is more casual, lighter, and on a composite strap rather than an integrated bracelet. It is the more practical everyday watch of the two.
Is it a good alternative if I cannot find a Nautilus?
It is a fine watch on its own terms rather than a consolation. Many people who try both end up preferring the Aquanaut for daily wear.
Do you take part exchange?
Yes. We buy the same pieces we sell, so part exchange against something in stock is straightforward. Start with a valuation.
Which Patek Philippe Aquanaut size should I choose?
The 40mm 5167A suits most wrists and is the natural first choice. The 42mm 5168G is better if you like a bolder watch, and the Luce models are smaller again. Trying them in person is the quickest way to decide.
Is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut available on a bracelet?
Some references are, such as the 5167/1A in steel. Most are on the composite strap, which is how the design was conceived and what most buyers look for.
Is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut also a women’s watch?
Yes. The Aquanaut Luce collection is designed mainly for women, and plenty of women also wear the 40mm model. The relaxed shape and light strap make it easy to wear whatever your wrist size.
Do you buy the Patek Philippe Aquanaut?
We do, directly for our own stock, with no hidden fees or commission. Quick initial valuations from photos are available over WhatsApp; see our Aquanaut selling page.
Kings & Queens Watches is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Patek Philippe. Model names and reference numbers are used only to describe the Aquanaut watches we sell.