Gérald Genta drew the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, four years after the Royal Oak, reportedly on a napkin at a restaurant in Basel. The case was inspired by a ship’s porthole, with the hinges at three and nine and a rounded octagonal bezel, and it was advertised as one of the world’s most expensive steel watches.
The 5711/1A in steel became the most talked-about watch of the last decade before Patek discontinued it. The Nautilus line remains among the most difficult watches in the world to acquire, and is not a piece we hold often.
The story of the Patek Philippe Nautilus
The first reference, the 3700/1A, was a large steel watch on an integrated bracelet, and like Genta’s Royal Oak it soon picked up the nickname “Jumbo”. A thin, sporty steel watch from a maker known for gold dress watches and grand complications was a bold step for Patek Philippe, and the nautical theme ran through everything from the name to the porthole-shaped case.
Through the following decades the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared in different sizes and metals, but the modern chapter began in 2006, the model’s 30th anniversary, with the 5711/1A. It refined the proportions, showed the automatic movement through a sapphire caseback, and became the steel watch that defined a decade of collecting.
In 2021 Patek Philippe announced that the steel 5711/1A would end, closing the run that year with an olive-green dial version. In 2022 the 5811/1G arrived as a successor of sorts: slightly larger at 41mm, in white gold rather than steel, with a blue dial. The wider family now spans chronographs, travel-time models and calendar complications, all built around the same porthole case.
What to know when buying a pre-owned Nautilus
Availability is the whole story. The steel 5711 was discontinued and there is no straightforward route to one at retail. Anything you see for sale is pre-owned, and priced accordingly.
Provenance is not optional here. With values at this level, the archive extract, the certificate of origin and a complete set matter enormously. We will not sell one we cannot stand behind.
References. The 5711/1A is the time-and-date steel model, the 5712 adds the moonphase and power reserve in that distinctive asymmetric layout, and the 5990 is the travel time chronograph.
The dial is harder to fake than people assume. The horizontally embossed dial with its gradient is very difficult to reproduce properly, and it is one of the first things our specialists examine.
Patek Philippe Nautilus references explained
Patek Philippe reference numbers carry useful clues. On the Nautilus, the “/1” indicates a metal bracelet, and the final letter gives the metal: A for steel, R for rose gold and G for white gold. Once you know that, a listing tells you a great deal before you see a single photograph. The table covers the Patek Philippe Nautilus references we are asked about most, and the Patek Philippe website shows the current collection.
| Reference | Metal | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| 3700/1A | Steel | The 1976 original, nicknamed “Jumbo” |
| 5711/1A | Steel, 40mm | Time and date, made from 2006 until 2021 |
| 5711/1R | Rose gold, 40mm | The rose gold 5711, with a brown dial |
| 5712/1A | Steel | Moon phase, power reserve and date in an asymmetric layout |
| 5990/1A | Steel | Travel Time Chronograph with a second time zone |
| 5811/1G | White gold, 41mm | Introduced in 2022, with a blue dial |
For a closer look at one of these, read our review of the Nautilus 5712. Beyond the reference, the dial colour, the year, the completeness of the set and the condition of the case all decide what an individual Patek Philippe Nautilus is worth, which is why we assess each watch on its own merits.
Steel, gold or a complication
For many buyers the steel time-and-date model is the Patek Philippe Nautilus in its purest form: slim, understated from a distance and instantly recognisable up close. Rose and white gold versions keep the same lines but add weight and warmth, and they tend to suit someone who wants the design without the steel watch’s ubiquity.
Complications change the personality again. The 5712 moves the dial towards dress-watch territory with its moon phase and power reserve, while the 5990 is built for frequent travellers who want a second time zone and a chronograph in one case. The right choice depends less on what is most talked about and more on how, and where, you will actually wear the watch.
Sizing and fit
The 5711 is usually quoted at 40mm, but the hinges at either side add visual width, so a Patek Philippe Nautilus can look larger in photographs than it feels on the wrist. In practice the slim case and the way the bracelet drapes from the case make it comfortable on a wide range of wrists, and most men find the standard size works well.
The gold 5811/1G is a touch bigger at 41mm, and some complicated references are larger and thicker again. There are also smaller Nautilus models aimed mainly at women, such as the 7118 series. As ever, a few minutes trying on two or three options will tell you more than any measurement.
Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak?
Both are Genta designs, both are steel sports watches on integrated bracelets, and serious buyers often weigh one against the other. The Royal Oak is angular, with its octagonal bezel and exposed screws. The Patek Philippe Nautilus is softer, its rounded octagon framed by the porthole “ears” at either side, and its dial carries horizontal embossed lines where the Royal Oak has a Tapisserie grid.
On the wrist the Nautilus tends to feel smoother and a little more discreet, while the Royal Oak is sharper and more architectural. Neither is better, and plenty of collectors end up owning both. If you are undecided, compare them in person; it settles the question faster than any review. Our Audemars Piguet Royal Oak page covers the alternative in detail.
Patek Philippe Nautilus or Aquanaut?
The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, borrows the Nautilus case shape but pairs it with a composite strap and a chequered dial. It is lighter and more casual, it copes better with hot weather and holidays, and it has a devoted following of its own rather than being a fallback. If the bracelet and polished detailing of the Nautilus feel too formal for how you live, it is worth trying on.
Side by side, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is the dressier of the two and the Aquanaut the more relaxed, yet both come from the same manufacture and are finished to the same standard. Our Patek Philippe Aquanaut page covers the younger model in more depth, including its sizes and the strap.
Provenance, box and papers for a Patek Philippe Nautilus
At this level, the paperwork is part of what you are buying. A full set gives the next owner confidence and makes the watch easier to sell on later. Every listing we publish states whether the watch comes with its box and papers, and our box and papers guide explains what each item proves. These are the points we check before a Patek Philippe Nautilus is offered:
- A certificate of origin or warranty card whose serial number matches the case
- Inner and outer boxes, booklets and any tags
- The full bracelet, plus any spare links
- Service records, with dates and the work carried out
- Sharp edges and clean transitions between brushed and polished surfaces
- An embossed dial with an even gradient and crisp printing
For older pieces, an extract from the Patek Philippe archives can confirm when the watch was made and how it originally left the factory. If a watch has one, it is a valuable part of the set; if it does not, we will tell you exactly what documentation it does have.
Buying from Kings & Queens
- Inspected and authenticatedEvery watch is checked by experienced specialists, with serial numbers and components verified before it is offered.
- 12-month warrantyPre-owned pieces carry a 12-month warranty against movement defects. Unworn watches carry the manufacturer's own cover.
- Fully insured deliveryFree, fully insured and signed-for delivery across the UK.
- 14-day returnsFourteen days to change your mind from the day your watch arrives. We cover the return postage.
We are a specialist dealer in Hatton Garden, London. A Nautilus is a watch to see before you commit, so viewing is by appointment, and a £100 deposit reserves the piece for three working days while you weigh it up.
Every Patek Philippe Nautilus we list has been inspected and authenticated by experienced specialists, and its serial number, bracelet number, movement identifiers and case markings are recorded. Unless the listing says otherwise, it is physically in our stock and available for you to inspect before it is dispatched.
Pre-owned watches come with our 12-month mechanical warranty from delivery unless the listing says otherwise, and any remaining manufacturer’s warranty applies on its own terms. UK delivery is free, insured and signed for, and orders are prepared within two to three working days of payment clearing. For fraud prevention we may ask for identity or payment verification, and we ship only to verified addresses. The delivery and returns page has the full detail, including our 14-day return window.
The deposit is non-refundable, but on request it can become store credit towards another watch. You can also part exchange a watch you own against the Nautilus in a single transaction. And because Nautilus stock is scarce, we source specific references and dials for clients on request.
Viewing a Patek Philippe Nautilus in Hatton Garden
We are at 9 St. Cross Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8UB, in the heart of the city’s jewellery quarter, and Farringdon and Chancery Lane stations are both a short walk away. Because every visit is booked, you have the space to yourself and our full attention while you try the Patek Philippe Nautilus on and go through its papers.
Appointments are available between 10:30am and 5:30pm from Monday to Friday, and between 12:00pm and 4:30pm on Saturdays. To book a time to see a Nautilus, ring 0330 043 7777 or send us a WhatsApp message.
Servicing a Patek Philippe Nautilus
Alpha Group, our sister business in the same building, carries out servicing, repairs and restoration. With a Nautilus, a sympathetic hand matters as much as technical skill: the brushed top surfaces and polished bevels of the case and bracelet should come back looking as they did, not rounded off by an over-enthusiastic polish.
Between services, treat the bracelet with care. The clasp and the links nearest the case take the most strain, so keep an eye on them, and remove the watch for anything that risks a hard knock. If you have inherited a Nautilus or it has sat unworn for years, have it checked before you start wearing it daily.
Common questions
Is the Nautilus still in production?
The line continues, but the steel 5711/1A that drove most of the attention was discontinued. Current production focuses on other references and metals, and supply remains extremely limited.
Why does it cost so much more than list?
Because almost nobody can buy one at list. The price reflects genuine scarcity against sustained global demand rather than a dealer premium.
Can you source one for me?
Often, yes. We source watches as well as stocking them. Tell us the reference and dial you are after.
What is the closest successor to the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A?
The 5811/1G, introduced in 2022. It keeps the time-and-date layout but moves to white gold and a 41mm case, so it feels noticeably different on the wrist from the steel 5711.
Should I buy a Patek Philippe Nautilus without papers?
It can be done, but go in with your eyes open. A watch without papers is harder to sell later and needs even closer inspection. Our listings always state what is included, and we will explain the history of any individual watch.
Can I see a Patek Philippe Nautilus before I buy?
Yes. Book an appointment at our Hatton Garden showroom and you can examine the watch, its bracelet and its paperwork in person before you decide.
Do you buy the Patek Philippe Nautilus too?
Yes. We buy directly for our own stock, with a free, no-obligation valuation and payment by secure bank transfer once the price is agreed. See our Nautilus selling page.
Kings & Queens Watches is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Patek Philippe. Model names and reference numbers are used only to describe the Nautilus watches we sell.