The Rolex Submariner arrived in 1953 as the first wristwatch guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres, and it has since become the template every other dive watch is measured against. The current references are rated to 300 metres, though almost none will ever see the sea.
It is the watch most people picture when they picture a Rolex, and it remains the single most requested model we are asked for. It is also, for most buyers, the right first serious watch: hard-wearing, universally recognised, and straightforward to own.
What to know when buying a pre-owned Rolex Submariner
Date or no date. The 124060 has no date window and no Cyclops, which gives a cleaner, more symmetrical dial. The 126610LN adds the date. This is entirely personal and worth seeing side by side.
The green ones have their own names. The 126610LV with the green bezel and black dial is often called the Kermit, a name it inherited from the aluminium-bezel 16610LV, and many people know it as the Starbucks. The earlier 116610LV with green bezel and green dial is the Hulk. They trade at a premium to the black references and the gap moves with the market.
Case size changed in 2020. The current generation moved to 41mm from the previous 40mm, along with a slimmer lug profile. The difference is more noticeable on the wrist than on paper.
Check the bezel action. A Submariner bezel should rotate anticlockwise only, in 120 firm clicks, with no play. It is the quickest honest test of whether a watch has been looked after, and the first thing we check when one comes in.
A short history of the Rolex Submariner
The first Submariner, the 6204, was presented in 1953 as a tool for divers, with a rotating bezel to time a dive and a case built to keep water out at depth. Its fame outside diving came quickly: Sean Connery wore one as James Bond in Dr. No in 1962, and the watch has been part of popular culture ever since.
The no-date 5513 was made for well over two decades and became the archetypal vintage Rolex Submariner. The first date model, the 1680, arrived in 1969 and introduced the Cyclops to the line. Five-digit references such as the 16610 and the no-date 14060 followed, with sapphire crystals and the 300-metre rating that is still standard today.
Early examples of the 1680 printed the word Submariner in red, and collectors still call them the “Red Sub”. Details like this are why vintage examples are assessed so carefully: on an older Rolex Submariner, the dial, hands and bezel insert all need to belong to the same period.
In 2010 the 116610LN brought a black Cerachrom ceramic bezel, a broader “Maxi” case and the Glidelock clasp. The no-date 114060 followed in 2012, and in 2020 the line moved to 41mm with the 124060 and 126610 references and the calibres 3230 and 3235. Rolex’s own site, rolex.com, has the full specification of current models.
Rolex Submariner references at a glance
| Reference | Date? | What defines it |
|---|---|---|
| 5513 | No | The long-running vintage no-date model |
| 1680 | Yes | The first Submariner Date, 1969 |
| 16610, 14060 | Yes; no | Sapphire crystal, aluminium bezel insert, 40mm |
| 116610LN, 114060 | Yes; no | Ceramic bezel, Maxi case, Glidelock clasp |
| 126610LN, 124060 | Yes; no | 41mm, calibres 3235 and 3230, from 2020 |
Suffixes such as LN, LV and LB describe the bezel colour: black, green or blue. The digits before them identify the generation and the metal.
Steel, two-tone and gold
Most buyers want steel, and the black-bezel steel models are the classic Rolex Submariner. The two-tone 126613LB, in steel and yellow gold with a blue bezel and dial, has its own following and is often called the “Bluesy”. Full gold versions, such as the yellow gold 126618LB and white gold 126619LB, keep the dive-watch design but feel very different on the wrist.
If you are torn, try a steel and a two-tone example back to back. The steel watch disappears into everyday life; the two-tone one is more of a statement and pairs better with gold jewellery. Gold models are heavier again, and their bezels and dials are usually blue or black rather than green.
Built for the water
- 300 metres of water resistance on all modern models, with a screw-down Triplock crown.
- A unidirectional bezel, so a knock can only shorten a timed dive, never extend it.
- Chromalight luminescence on modern dials, which glows blue and lasts well into the night.
- The Glidelock clasp, which extends the bracelet by about 20mm in 2mm steps without tools, so it fits over a wetsuit or a swollen wrist.
You do not need to dive to appreciate any of this. It is simply why a Rolex Submariner can be worn every day for years and shrug off the kind of life that would worry a dress watch.
Sizing a Rolex Submariner
The current 41mm case sits on slimmer lugs than the 40mm 116610, so on most wrists the newer watch actually looks a little more elegant, despite being larger. The older Maxi case has broad, flat lugs and a bolder presence that some people prefer, particularly on a larger wrist.
Five-digit models such as the 16610 have thinner lugs still and a lighter bracelet, with hollow end links on earlier examples. They feel noticeably more vintage on the wrist, which is part of their appeal. If you can, try one of each generation; most people know which they prefer within a minute.
Which Rolex Submariner should you buy?
For a first Rolex, a steel black-bezel model is hard to beat: the 126610LN if you want the date, the 124060 if you prefer a clean dial. Both are current, both wear easily, and neither will ever look out of place. If you want colour, the green-bezel models add personality without losing any of the practicality.
If you like a watch with some age to it, a five-digit 16610 or 14060 gives you the slimmer case and aluminium bezel of the earlier generation. And if you want something dressier, the two-tone and gold versions turn the same tool watch into something you could wear to a wedding. Tell us how you will wear your Rolex Submariner and we will put the right options in front of you.
Rolex Submariner or Datejust?
This is the most common choice we help first-time buyers make. The Submariner is the sportier, more robust watch, with a rotating bezel and 300 metres of water resistance. The Datejust is dressier and comes in more sizes, metals and dials. Both are excellent daily watches.
The deciding question is usually how you dress most days. If it is a suit, the Datejust tends to win; if it is jeans and a jumper, the Rolex Submariner usually does. Seeing them side by side in the showroom settles it quickly for most people.
Checking a pre-owned Rolex Submariner
- The bezel should click anticlockwise only, align exactly with the minute markers, and have its luminous pip at twelve intact.
- The crown should screw down fully and smoothly; a damaged crown tube compromises water resistance.
- Lume on the dial, hands and bezel pip should look consistent, and should match the age of the watch.
- Glidelock or older extension clasps should open, slide and lock without slack.
- Lugs should keep their bevelled edges. Rounded lugs mean a case has been polished hard.
- Serial and model numbers should match the papers where they are supplied.
Box and papers for a Rolex Submariner
For recent models, buyers expect the Rolex warranty card, and its presence makes a watch easier to sell on. For a 16610 or older, a watch without papers is common and can still be an excellent purchase. Each listing makes clear whether the box and papers come with the watch, and our box and papers guide sets out what each item does and does not prove.
Whatever comes with the watch, the serial number engraved on the case should match the paperwork exactly. Before any watch is offered for sale, our specialists record its serial number, bracelet number, movement identifiers and case markings, so there is a clear record of the watch you are buying.
Looking after your Rolex Submariner
Rinse the watch in fresh water after swimming in the sea or a chlorinated pool, and always check the crown is screwed down before it goes near water. Avoid operating the crown while the watch is wet. Seals age whether or not a watch is worn, so a pre-owned Submariner that will be swum in should be pressure-tested.
Rolex recommends servicing its modern watches approximately every 10 years. Our sister workshop, Alpha Group, is in the same building as our showroom and handles servicing, repairs and restoration, so a Submariner bought from us has somewhere to go for care without leaving Hatton Garden.
Buying from Kings & Queens
- Inspected and authenticatedEvery watch is checked by experienced specialists, with serial numbers and components verified before it is offered.
- 12-month warrantyPre-owned pieces carry a 12-month warranty against movement defects. Unworn watches carry the manufacturer's own cover.
- Fully insured deliveryFree, fully insured and signed-for delivery across the UK.
- 14-day returnsFourteen days to change your mind from the day your watch arrives. We cover the return postage.
We are a specialist dealer in Hatton Garden, London. You are welcome to view any watch in person by appointment, or reserve a piece with a £100 deposit while you decide.
A Rolex Submariner is very often someone’s first serious watch, so it is worth knowing what protects you. Pre-owned watches carry our 12-month mechanical warranty from delivery, unless the listing says otherwise, and you have 14 days to return a watch for a full refund. Details are on our warranty page.
UK delivery is free, fully insured and signed for, and orders are prepared within 2 to 3 working days of payment clearing. If you later want to move up to another model, we buy watches directly for our own stock, and part exchange lets you offset your Submariner against the next one.
Visiting our Hatton Garden showroom
Our showroom is at 9 St. Cross Street, London EC1N 8UB, in the middle of London’s historic jewellery quarter and a few minutes’ walk from Farringdon and Chancery Lane stations. Opening hours are Monday to Friday 10:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 12:00pm to 4:30pm. Every viewing is by appointment; book through our contact page or call 0330 043 7777. Let us know which references you would like to compare, and we will have them ready when you arrive.
Common questions
Is the Submariner a good first luxury watch?
It is the one we most often recommend. It is robust enough for daily wear, holds value well, suits almost any wrist, and you will not tire of it. If you are buying one watch, this is a sound place to start.
How often does it need servicing?
Rolex suggests roughly every ten years, though it depends on use. A watch that is worn daily and exposed to water will benefit from more frequent attention. We can arrange servicing through our workshop.
Should I worry about scratches on a pre-owned example?
Light marks on a steel bracelet are normal and can usually be improved. What matters far more is that the case has not been over-polished, because that is not reversible. We will always tell you what condition a piece is genuinely in.
Can I really dive with a Rolex Submariner?
Yes. It was designed for exactly that, and modern models are water-resistant to 300 metres. On a pre-owned watch, the important thing is the condition of the seals, so have it pressure-tested before serious diving, and screw the crown down every time.
Is the 41mm Rolex Submariner very different from the 40mm?
Less than the numbers suggest. The 41mm case has slimmer lugs, so many people find it wears more neatly than the 40mm Maxi case it replaced. Trying them side by side is the quickest way to decide.
Do you buy the Rolex Submariner?
Yes. We buy watches outright for our own stock, with no commission or hidden fees: the agreed price is what you receive. See our Submariner selling page for how it works.
Are older aluminium-bezel Submariners still good to wear?
Yes. A five-digit Rolex Submariner such as the 16610 is a robust everyday watch. The aluminium insert will mark and fade with use, which many owners like, and replacement inserts are available at service if you prefer it crisp. Just make sure any replacement is described honestly when you buy.
Can the bracelet be adjusted without a jeweller?
On models with the Glidelock clasp, yes, by about 20mm in small steps, without any tools. For larger changes, links are added or removed, so it is worth keeping any spare links that come with the watch.
Kings & Queens Watches is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex.