Rolex Datejust.

The Rolex Datejust has been in continuous production since 1945, when it arrived as the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to show the date in a window. Almost everything people recognise as a Rolex – the Cyclops lens, the fluted bezel, the Jubilee bracelet – either began here or became famous here.

It is also the most versatile watch Rolex makes, which is why it is consistently the model we hold most of. A 36mm steel Datejust on a Jubilee is as comfortable under a shirt cuff as it is at the weekend, and the two-tone and diamond-set references have an audience of their own.

What to know when buying a pre-owned Rolex Datejust

Case size matters more than anything else. The modern line runs 31mm, 36mm and 41mm. The 36mm is the classic proportion and the safest choice if you are buying for someone else; the 41mm suits a larger wrist and has become the more requested size in recent years.

Bracelet changes the character completely. The five-link Jubilee is dressier and softer on the wrist. The three-link Oyster is sportier and sits flatter. It is worth handling both before committing, which is exactly what our showroom is for.

References you will see. Current-generation 41mm pieces are the 126300 and 126334, and 36mm the 126200 and 126234, with the last two digits indicating the bezel and metal. Earlier 116200 and 116234 references remain excellent buying and often represent better value.

Dials drive the price. Two otherwise identical Datejusts can differ significantly on dial alone. Wimbledon, mother of pearl, and diamond-dot dials all carry a premium, and a rare factory dial can be worth more than the case metal.

A short history of the Rolex Datejust

Rolex was founded in London in 1905, so the Datejust arrived in the company’s fortieth year. The Jubilee bracelet was designed for that launch, and the pairing has stayed together ever since. The magnifying Cyclops lens over the date followed in the early 1950s, and it is now so closely tied to the brand that most people assume every Rolex has one.

Through the 1960s and 1970s the reference most people met was the 1601, a 36mm Rolex Datejust with an acrylic crystal and a fluted bezel. The five-digit generation that followed moved to sapphire crystal and a quickset date, and references such as the 16233 and 16234 are still among the most widely worn vintage-leaning Rolex watches today.

The six-digit 116200 family brought sturdier bracelets with solid end links, and in 2009 Rolex added the 41mm Datejust II. That was replaced in 2016 by the Datejust 41, and the 36mm models moved to the same calibre 3235 movement soon after. For Rolex’s own description of the current collection, see rolex.com.

Rolex Datejust references at a glance

If a reference number on a listing means nothing to you, our guide to Rolex reference numbers explains how the digits map to size, bezel and metal.

Steel, Rolesor or gold: choosing the metal

Most buyers start with Oystersteel. A smooth-bezel steel model such as the 126300 is the most understated Rolex Datejust you can wear, and it suits almost any dial. Swap the smooth bezel for a fluted one in 18ct white gold, as on the 126334, and the watch catches the light far more without looking any less discreet.

Rolesor, Rolex’s name for steel combined with gold, is where the Datejust has always had a strong following. Yellow Rolesor is the classic two-tone look. Everose Rolesor, as on the 126331 shown above, pairs steel with Rolex’s own pink gold and has a softer, warmer tone that works especially well with brown, silver and white dials.

Diamond-set bezels and dials sit at the dressier end of the range. Here the distinction between factory and aftermarket stones matters a great deal, and we explain why in our article on factory-set diamonds.

Rolex Datejust dials worth knowing

No other Rolex has been made with as many dials, and it is the dial that most buyers fall for first. A few have become well known enough to be recognised by name:

• Wimbledon: a slate dial with green Roman numerals outlined in white, a nod to Rolex’s long association with the Wimbledon Championships.
• Mother of pearl: natural shell, so no two dials are quite the same.
• Jubilee motif: the Rolex name repeated across the dial in a fine pattern.
• Fluted motif and palm motif: recent textured dials that echo the fluted bezel and a palm-leaf pattern.
• Sunray finishes: blue, black, chocolate and silver, the everyday choices that suit almost anything.

A plain sunray dial on a steel Rolex Datejust is the easiest watch in the range to live with. A rarer dial is a stronger statement and tends to be what collectors chase, so it is worth deciding early which of those you want the watch to be.

Jubilee or Oyster: the practical details

• Modern Datejust bracelets have an Oysterclasp with the Easylink comfort extension, which lets out about 5mm when your wrist is warm.
• The Jubilee has more links, so it drapes closely around a smaller wrist.
• The Oyster is easier to clean and shows fewer scratches between the links.
• Spare links matter. A bracelet that has been shortened needs its links back if the next owner has a larger wrist.

Which size of Rolex Datejust suits you?

The 31mm is often bought as a women’s watch, though it simply reads as a neat, slim dress watch on any small wrist. The 36mm is the original Datejust proportion and the size most of the model’s reputation was built on. The 41mm has the same design scaled up, with a broader bracelet that suits a larger hand.

Because the case is round and the lugs are short, a Rolex Datejust tends to wear a little smaller than its diameter suggests. Many people who assume they need the 41mm end up choosing the 36mm once they have tried both on. The only reliable test is your own wrist, ideally in front of a mirror and in natural light.

It is also the watch most often bought in pairs. A 36mm and a 31mm Rolex Datejust in the same metal, with similar dials, make an obvious anniversary or wedding present. Because the design is identical at every size, the two read as a set without being the same watch.

Checking a pre-owned Rolex Datejust

A Datejust is a straightforward watch to own, but a few details separate a well-kept example from a tired one. These are the points our specialists look at first:

• The date should change crisply around midnight, and the quickset should advance it cleanly from the crown.
• The Cyclops lens should sit centred over the date window and magnify it clearly.
• Fluted bezels should have sharp, even ridges. Rounded flutes usually mean heavy polishing.
• Jubilee bracelets on older five-digit models can stretch, so look for uneven gaps between the links.
• Dials should be original to the watch. Refinished and replacement dials affect value considerably.
• The serial and model numbers should match any papers that come with the watch.

Box and papers for a Rolex Datejust

On a recent watch, “papers” means the Rolex warranty card that records the serial number and date of sale. Older pieces may come with a paper certificate instead, or with nothing at all. Every listing we publish states clearly whether the box and papers are included, so you know exactly what you are buying.

A complete set is worth more and is easier to sell on, but a Rolex Datejust without papers can still be an excellent watch to wear, particularly an older model where originals have often been lost. Our box and papers guide covers what each item proves and how much weight to give it.

Servicing a Rolex Datejust

Rolex recommends servicing its modern watches approximately every 10 years, though a watch that is worn hard may need attention sooner. Signs that one is due include the watch losing or gaining time noticeably, a date that changes sluggishly, or a crown that no longer screws down smoothly.

Servicing, repairs and restoration are handled by our sister workshop, Alpha Group, which shares our building. That makes it easy to have an older Datejust looked at, or to have a Jubilee bracelet cleaned and checked, without sending it far from where you bought it.

Buying from Kings & Queens

• Inspected and authenticatedEvery watch is checked by experienced specialists, with serial numbers and components verified before it is offered.
• 12-month warrantyPre-owned pieces carry a 12-month warranty against movement defects. Unworn watches carry the manufacturer's own cover.
• Fully insured deliveryFree, fully insured and signed-for delivery across the UK.
• 14-day returnsFourteen days to change your mind from the day your watch arrives. We cover the return postage.

We are a specialist dealer in Hatton Garden, London. You are welcome to view any watch in person by appointment, or reserve a piece with a £100 deposit while you decide.

Every Rolex Datejust we offer is inspected and authenticated by experienced watch specialists before it goes on sale, and its serial number, bracelet number, movement identifiers and case markings are recorded.

The most useful thing you can do before buying a Datejust is compare sizes, bracelets and dials side by side. Appointments at our showroom on St. Cross Street are private, so there is time to try a 36mm against a 41mm, or a Jubilee against an Oyster, without anyone waiting behind you.

If the exact combination you want is not in stock, we source specific watches for clients on request. You can also part exchange a watch you already own: its value is offset against the Datejust you are buying in a single transaction.

Viewing a Rolex Datejust in Hatton Garden

Our showroom is at 9 St. Cross Street, in the heart of London’s jewellery quarter, a short walk from Farringdon and Chancery Lane stations. We are open Monday to Friday from 10:30am to 5:30pm and on Saturday from 12:00pm to 4:30pm.

All viewings are by appointment, so tell us which references, sizes or dials you would like to see and we will have them ready. Call 0330 043 7777, message us on WhatsApp, or use our contact page to book a time.

Common questions

Kings & Queens Watches is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex.