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Rolex
Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Cartier
Why we focus on these ten watches
Every model on this page has earned its place over decades rather than a single season. Each one has a clear identity, a well-documented history and a strong following among buyers, which means there is real depth of knowledge about how to judge one and what to look for.
Concentrating on a shortlist lets us know these models properly: the references, the generations, the details that separate a good example from a tired one. That knowledge goes into every watch we inspect before it is listed, and into the advice we give when you are deciding between two of them.
How to choose between these watches
Most people arrive with one model in mind and leave having seriously considered two or three. That is normal, and it is the best way to end up with a watch you will still enjoy wearing in years to come. Working through a few questions in order narrows the field quickly.
- Decide what the watch is for. Daily wear, special occasions, travel or sport each point towards different models.
- Choose a shape and size. Round or square, 36mm or 42mm: try a few, because numbers on paper rarely match how a watch feels.
- Pick a metal. Steel goes with everything, while gold or a mix of the two alters both the look and the weight on your wrist.
- Consider the complications. A date is enough for many people; others want a chronograph, a second time zone or an annual calendar.
- Look at the set and condition. Box, papers, service history and the state of the case all matter.
- See your shortlist in person. A private appointment lets you compare the finalists side by side.
The six Rolex watches we focus on
The Datejust is where many collections begin. Rolex presented it in 1945 as the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to show the date in a window on the dial, and it remains the most adaptable watch in the range. Smooth or fluted bezel, Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, steel or Rolesor: the combinations are almost endless, and it suits office and weekend equally well.
The Day-Date arrived in 1956 as the first wristwatch to spell out the day of the week in full. It is made only in gold or platinum, usually on the President bracelet, and it is the most formal Rolex on this list. If you want a single watch that says “occasion”, this is it.
The Cosmograph Daytona, introduced in 1963, is Rolex’s chronograph, built around a tachymeter bezel for measuring speed. It is sporty, instantly recognisable and among the most requested watches of all. The current steel 126500LN, launched in 2023, keeps the black ceramic bezel introduced on its predecessor.
The GMT-Master II descends from the 1955 GMT-Master, developed with Pan Am for pilots crossing time zones. Its two-colour bezel tracks a second time zone, and the colour pairings have earned nicknames such as “Pepsi”, “Batman”, “Root Beer” and “Sprite”. It is the natural choice for anyone who travels often.
The Sky-Dweller, launched in 2012, combines an annual calendar with a second time zone, all controlled through its rotating Ring Command bezel. At 42mm it is the largest and most technically ambitious Rolex here, yet it stays easy to read and simple to set.
The Submariner has defined the diver’s watch since 1953. Rugged, legible and comfortable, it is the watch many people picture when they hear the word Rolex, and it works as well with a suit as on a beach. The current generation measures 41mm, with or without a date.
For the full current line-up and specifications, the Rolex website is the reference point, and our guide to Rolex reference numbers explains how to read the codes on any listing.
Beyond Rolex: four watches from three great houses
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak of 1972 created the idea of the luxury steel sports watch, with its octagonal bezel, exposed screws and integrated bracelet. It is all about finishing: crisp alternating brushed and polished surfaces that reward close inspection. Choose it if you want something more architectural than a Rolex.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus followed in 1976 from the same designer, Gérald Genta. Softer in outline, with porthole-style “ears” and a horizontally embossed dial, it is quieter than the Royal Oak and extremely hard to find. It suits a buyer who values discretion and is prepared to wait for the right example.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, takes the Nautilus outline in a more relaxed direction, usually on a composite strap with a chequered dial. It is light, comfortable in the heat and probably the most wearable Patek Philippe of all for everyday life.
The Cartier Santos began in 1904 as a watch for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, and its square case and screwed bezel still set it apart. Since 2018 it has offered tool-free strap and bracelet changes. It is the choice for anyone who wants a recognisable luxury watch that is not round.
The ten watches compared at a glance
| Model | Introduced | Defining feature | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rolex Datejust | 1945 | Date window, endless variations | Everyday wear |
| Rolex Day-Date | 1956 | Day spelled in full, gold or platinum only | Formal occasions |
| Rolex Daytona | 1963 | Chronograph with tachymeter bezel | Sport and statement |
| Rolex GMT-Master II | 1955 (GMT-Master) | Second time zone, two-colour bezel | Frequent travellers |
| Rolex Sky-Dweller | 2012 | Annual calendar and second time zone | Business travel |
| Rolex Submariner | 1953 | Diver’s bezel, robust case | All-round daily wear |
| AP Royal Oak | 1972 | Octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet | Design-led sports luxury |
| Patek Philippe Nautilus | 1976 | Porthole case, embossed dial | Understated sports luxury |
| Patek Philippe Aquanaut | 1997 | Composite strap, chequered dial | Relaxed everyday wear |
| Cartier Santos | 1904 | Square case, screwed bezel | Something different from round |
Sport, dress or travel: matching watches to your life
If you want one watch for everything, the Submariner, Datejust and Aquanaut are the most forgiving: comfortable, robust and appropriate almost anywhere. For travel, the GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller both track a second time zone, and each handles it in its own way. For a formal or celebratory piece, the Day-Date is hard to beat.
The integrated-bracelet sports watches, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, sit in a category of their own. They are as much about design and finishing as function, and they reward a buyer who enjoys the details. The Daytona is the chronograph of the group, and the Santos is the alternative for anyone who wants to move away from round watches entirely.
Size, metal and dial
Case sizes across these models run from 31mm Datejusts up to 42mm for the Sky-Dweller and the larger Aquanaut, but diameter is only part of the story. Bezel width, case thickness and how the bracelet meets the case all change how a watch wears. A 40mm Daytona and a 41mm Royal Oak, for example, feel quite different on the same wrist.
Metal matters just as much on luxury watches. Steel is light and versatile; gold is heavier, warmer and more formal. Two-tone pieces, such as Rolesor Datejusts or two-tone Santos models, sit between the two. Dial colour is the last decision and often the most personal, and on several of these models it also has a real bearing on price, which we will always explain.
What shapes the price of these watches
Within any one model, prices vary for clear reasons. The reference and generation come first, followed by the metal and the dial; a scarce dial colour can move a watch into a different bracket altogether. Then come condition, completeness and history: a watch with sharp, unpolished edges, its original box and papers and a documented service record is simply a better proposition than one without.
Demand plays its part too, which is why some of these watches trade above their original retail price and others do not. We do not make predictions, but we will always explain why a particular watch is priced as it is, and how it compares with similar watches we have seen.
Pre-owned or unworn?
Pre-owned watches have had a previous owner and are sold after our inspection and authentication, with our 12-month mechanical warranty from delivery unless the listing says otherwise. Unworn or new watches are covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, and where a watch is still within that warranty, the manufacturer’s terms apply.
Both routes have their appeal. A pre-owned piece gives access to discontinued references and earlier generations, while an unworn watch offers a fresh start. Every listing states whether the watch comes with its box and papers, and our guide to box and papers explains why that matters when you come to sell.
Buying with confidence
- Inspected and authenticatedEvery watch is checked by experienced specialists, with serial numbers and components verified before it is offered.
- 12-month warrantyPre-owned pieces carry a 12-month warranty against movement defects. Unworn watches carry the manufacturer's own cover.
- Fully insured deliveryFree, fully insured and signed-for delivery across the UK.
- 14-day returnsFourteen days to change your mind from the day your watch arrives. We cover the return postage.
Viewing is welcome by appointment at Hatton Garden, and any watch can be reserved with a £100 deposit while you decide. If you are also looking to sell or part-exchange, we buy the same pieces we sell – see what we are buying.
Behind that, the process is the same for every watch on this page. Experienced specialists inspect and authenticate it, and they record its serial number, bracelet number, movement identifiers and case markings. Unless the listing says otherwise, it is physically in our stock, and UK delivery is free, insured and signed for.
Viewing, reserving and part exchange
Our showroom is at 9 St. Cross Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8UB, a few minutes’ walk from Farringdon and Chancery Lane. Appointments are private and run Monday to Friday from 10:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 12:00pm to 4:30pm, so you can compare several models in one unhurried visit.
The £100 deposit holds a watch for three working days. It is non-refundable, but on request it can be used as store credit towards another watch. Part exchange offsets the value of a watch you own against the one you are buying in a single transaction, and if yours is worth more, we pay you the difference. If the model you want is not in stock, we can source it.
Caring for your watches between services
Our sister business, Alpha Group, handles watch servicing, repairs and restoration from the same building, so the people who look after your watch after you buy it are under the same roof as the people who sold it to you. Mechanical watches need periodic servicing to keep running well, and a sympathetic service protects the original finishing as well as the movement.
Day to day, the rules are simple. Store watches apart so they cannot scratch one another, take them off for heavy work or contact sport, and have water resistance checked before swimming if a watch has not been serviced recently. Our service and repairs page explains what Alpha Group can do.
Frequently asked questions
Which of these watches is best for a first luxury purchase?
There is no single answer, but the Datejust, Submariner and Santos are the most common starting points because they are versatile, comfortable and easy to live with. The right one depends on your wrist, your wardrobe and how often you will wear it.
Can I see several watches in one appointment?
Yes. Tell us which models you are considering when you book, and we will have whatever we hold in stock ready to compare side by side.
Will the watch I choose include its box and papers?
That depends on the individual watch. The listing for each one spells out whether the original box and papers are part of the sale, and we are happy to show you exactly what is in the set.
Can you find a model or reference you do not have in stock?
Yes. We source specific watches for clients on request. Tell us the model, reference, dial and metal you are after, and we will tell you what is realistic.
Are your watches authenticated before they are sold?
Yes. Every one of our watches is inspected and authenticated by experienced watch specialists before it is offered, and its serial number and other identifiers are recorded on file.
Do you deliver outside the UK?
We ship internationally on most orders. UK delivery is free, fully insured and signed for, and every order is tracked once dispatched.
Can I return a watch if it is not right?
You can. A 14-day return window applies, and once the watch is back with us and has been checked, the full amount is refunded to the card or account you paid with.
Kings & Queens Watches is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe or Cartier.
